Church of "St Mary's of the Storms" Cowie Stonehaven
A wealth of information on local history may be gleaned within old Scottish kirkyards. Many are located on a site of ancient ecclesiastical importance where an early Christian missionary may have built a small heather-thatched chapel over a thousand years ago. The ruins of a medieval church still stand in some kirkyards. Others contain the burial vault of a local laird, or a watchtower built to guard against grave-robbers.
Kirkyards are peaceful places and a study of the memorials therein can be fascinating and rewarding. Even the pattern of moss and lichen growth on time-worn stones may tell a tale. Stones vary from roughly hewn granite rocks and simple sandstone slabs to elaborate monuments of polished granite or marble. Inscriptions on headstones are of particular value to those wishing to trace symbols in addition to names, dates and ages. Sometimes the achievements of the deceased are listed and perhaps also the cause of death.
Headstones dating from the 17th and 18th centuries may be engraved with emblems of mortality, such as skulls and bones, the sexton’s spade and turf cutter, or an hourglass symbolising the sands of time running out. These older stones may also be embellished with winged souls, often at the top of the headstone, to represent the hope of resurrection and immortality.
Epitaphs may be eulogies for the deceased, often listing amazing virtues, or may be simple rhymes intended to remind the passer-by of the inevitability of death –
“Remember man, as thou goes by,
As thou art now so once was I,
As I am now so thou must be,
Remember man that thou must die.”
Other epitaphs dwell on the hope of resurrection –
“They rest in hope, exempt from pain,
They lived to Christ, their deaths are gain,
And now those friends together meet
In Christ their joys are full complete
St Nathalan or St Nachlan, is reputed to have built the first small chapel at Cowie on this windswept clifftop sometime during the 7th century. Legends abound regarding this Scottish saint, who also built churches at Coull and Tullich on Deeside. In addition to preaching the gospil, St Nathalan taught his people to cultivate the land and grow crops. He died around 678 AD and is believed to have been buried at Tullich. There is a tradition that he owned great treasure which was wrapped in a bull’s hide, tied with a ropeand buried in the area now occupied by the extension of the kirkyard. A well known Cowie rhyme tell us:
“Between the kirk and the kirk ford,
There lies Saint Nachlan’s hoard.”
A narrow footbridge spans the Kirk Burn today but in past times travellers crossed by the ford in the den below the chapel. A path linked the chapel to Cowie Castle, which stood on the cliff top some 200 metres to the south. All that now remains of the castle is a section of low stonewall, partially hidden in the undergrowth. It is hard to believe that here for over 400 years stood an important stronghold which guarded the southern end of the Cowie Mounth, the route to Aberdeen. Cowie Castle belonged to the Frasers until 1369 when it passed by marriage to the Keiths of Dunotttar, the powerful Earls Marischal of Scotland. It is likely that the kings of Scotland would have stayed at Cowie Castle when visiting this region. The Castle fell into decline around 1645; the fragment of castle wall and the ruined chapel are the sole remains of the Royal Burgh of Cowie, a township once of greater importance than Stonehaven.
Within the kirkyard is the ruin of the Chalpel of St Mary and St Nathalan, often know as the Chapel of Our Lady of the Storms. It was dedicated on the 22 May 1276 by William Wishart, Bishop of St Andrews, and probably stands on the same site as St Nathalan’s early church. The chapel was never a parish church but was included within the parish of Fetteresso. Several Scottish Monarchs, in particular James IV, frequently worshipped here and gave generous donations to the chapel.
The small unicameral chapel, built of whinstone in 13th century Early English style, is typical church of the period, although it appears to have been lengthened by about 7 metres at the west end at some later date. Three elegent lancet windows grace the east gable of the church. The south wall was partially rebuilt in the 1860s but the priest’s door is still complete. A small aumbry may be seen in the northeast corner of the chapel.
The chapel fell into disuse soon after the Reformation. It is recorded that it “was unroofed by the ecclesiastical authority on account of certain scandals”. The local people then begin to take stones from the walls for building purposes despite a legend that the stones would rain drops of blood upon any house built with them. The lintel from above the main doorway is reputed to have been removed several times but each time mysteriously reappeared in its original position; it has, however, been missing for many years.
About 1830 a mort-house with a flight of steps leading underground to an arched chamber was built against the west wall of the chapel. Here bodies were stored for some weeks after death to protect them from the grave robbers who sold corpses to anatomy students for dissection.
From the Chapel of Our Lady of the Storms the North Sea may be viewed in all its moods, and within the sheltering walls of the kirkyard rest many who depended on these waters for their livelihood. Numerous headstones, some adorned with ships and anchors, stand in memory of seamen and fishermen. Many of these men lost their lives at sea. Close to the west gable of the chapel is a prominent memorial to the crew of the Stonehaven lifeboat, St George, who died on 27 February, 1874 whilst going to the rescue of the barque, Grace Darling. When distress signals were spotted, the crew launched the lifeboat in heavy seas and rowed frantically to help the barque which was being swept northwards. The lifeboat crew was unable to overtake the barque and had abandon the mission at Aberdeen, Tragically, the lifeboat capsized as it entered Aberdeen harbour with the loss of the coxswain and three crew members. Two of these courageous men are buried here at Cowie, one at Nigg and one at Belhelvie.
Scattered throughout Cowie kirkyard are headstones which display symbols of mortality, such as skulls, crossed bones, hourglasses and the sexton’s spades. The unusual symbol of a winged hourglass may be seen on a badly eroded 18th century stone within the ruined chapel. There are aalso excellent examples of trade symbols such as the crown and hammer of the blacksmith, the crown and last of the shoemaker, the tree-masted ship of the merchant seaman, the boat of the fisherman, and the ploughshare and coulter of the farmer. Close to the priest’s door is the headstone of a Stonehaven merchant which bears the traditional merchant’s symbol based on the figure 4. Nearby is a late 18th century stone memory of William Edward and his wife, engraved by their son with the Masonic symbols of sun, moon, star, set square and compasses, trowel, chisel on ashlar, level, plumb rule, mell, set square and gavel.
There are several curious inscriptions in Cowie kirkyard. One of these commemorates Raymond Stewart, who is described as a “a Black Man, a native of Granada who lived 30 years in the service of the late Mr Farquharsoon of Breda, in this country, and was much respected. “ He died at Elsick on 3rd January 1834 “leaving money which he had saved for charitable purposes”. Another intriguing epitaph is that of William Kilgour which describes him as “an original genius who exercised his craft of a weaver at Glithnow for the long period of 62 years”. It continues :
“here lyes the man, for aught we know,
That lived and died without a foe
Now mouldr’ing here beneath that clod
An honest man’s the noblest work of God.”
Not far from the seaward wall is a goup of tombstones commemorating ministers of the Episcopal Church. One of these stones marks the resting place of the Reverent John Troup of Muchalls, who died in 1776. Mr Troup, along with his fellow clergymen, Mr John Petrie of Drumlithie and Mr Alexander Greig of Stonehaven, defiantly contravened the Act which prohibited Episcopal minister from preaching to more than 4 persons at a time. Consequently, all three gentlemen were imprisoned in the Old Tolbooth at Stonehave for six months during the winter of 1748-49. It is said that Mr Troup made his personal protest by boldly piping the Jacobite air, “O’er the Water to Charlie”, as he was led to prison.
Regardless of their confinement, the three clergymen continued to minister to their faithful follower and regularly read matins and evenson to those who gathered below the window of their cell. Baptisms too were conducted, the infants being carried in creels through knee-deep water and over rocks to be held up to the bars of the shore side prison windows.
Kincardine and Deeside District Council -1995
Kirkyards are peaceful places and a study of the memorials therein can be fascinating and rewarding. Even the pattern of moss and lichen growth on time-worn stones may tell a tale. Stones vary from roughly hewn granite rocks and simple sandstone slabs to elaborate monuments of polished granite or marble. Inscriptions on headstones are of particular value to those wishing to trace symbols in addition to names, dates and ages. Sometimes the achievements of the deceased are listed and perhaps also the cause of death.
Headstones dating from the 17th and 18th centuries may be engraved with emblems of mortality, such as skulls and bones, the sexton’s spade and turf cutter, or an hourglass symbolising the sands of time running out. These older stones may also be embellished with winged souls, often at the top of the headstone, to represent the hope of resurrection and immortality.
Epitaphs may be eulogies for the deceased, often listing amazing virtues, or may be simple rhymes intended to remind the passer-by of the inevitability of death –
“Remember man, as thou goes by,
As thou art now so once was I,
As I am now so thou must be,
Remember man that thou must die.”
Other epitaphs dwell on the hope of resurrection –
“They rest in hope, exempt from pain,
They lived to Christ, their deaths are gain,
And now those friends together meet
In Christ their joys are full complete
St Nathalan or St Nachlan, is reputed to have built the first small chapel at Cowie on this windswept clifftop sometime during the 7th century. Legends abound regarding this Scottish saint, who also built churches at Coull and Tullich on Deeside. In addition to preaching the gospil, St Nathalan taught his people to cultivate the land and grow crops. He died around 678 AD and is believed to have been buried at Tullich. There is a tradition that he owned great treasure which was wrapped in a bull’s hide, tied with a ropeand buried in the area now occupied by the extension of the kirkyard. A well known Cowie rhyme tell us:
“Between the kirk and the kirk ford,
There lies Saint Nachlan’s hoard.”
A narrow footbridge spans the Kirk Burn today but in past times travellers crossed by the ford in the den below the chapel. A path linked the chapel to Cowie Castle, which stood on the cliff top some 200 metres to the south. All that now remains of the castle is a section of low stonewall, partially hidden in the undergrowth. It is hard to believe that here for over 400 years stood an important stronghold which guarded the southern end of the Cowie Mounth, the route to Aberdeen. Cowie Castle belonged to the Frasers until 1369 when it passed by marriage to the Keiths of Dunotttar, the powerful Earls Marischal of Scotland. It is likely that the kings of Scotland would have stayed at Cowie Castle when visiting this region. The Castle fell into decline around 1645; the fragment of castle wall and the ruined chapel are the sole remains of the Royal Burgh of Cowie, a township once of greater importance than Stonehaven.
Within the kirkyard is the ruin of the Chalpel of St Mary and St Nathalan, often know as the Chapel of Our Lady of the Storms. It was dedicated on the 22 May 1276 by William Wishart, Bishop of St Andrews, and probably stands on the same site as St Nathalan’s early church. The chapel was never a parish church but was included within the parish of Fetteresso. Several Scottish Monarchs, in particular James IV, frequently worshipped here and gave generous donations to the chapel.
The small unicameral chapel, built of whinstone in 13th century Early English style, is typical church of the period, although it appears to have been lengthened by about 7 metres at the west end at some later date. Three elegent lancet windows grace the east gable of the church. The south wall was partially rebuilt in the 1860s but the priest’s door is still complete. A small aumbry may be seen in the northeast corner of the chapel.
The chapel fell into disuse soon after the Reformation. It is recorded that it “was unroofed by the ecclesiastical authority on account of certain scandals”. The local people then begin to take stones from the walls for building purposes despite a legend that the stones would rain drops of blood upon any house built with them. The lintel from above the main doorway is reputed to have been removed several times but each time mysteriously reappeared in its original position; it has, however, been missing for many years.
About 1830 a mort-house with a flight of steps leading underground to an arched chamber was built against the west wall of the chapel. Here bodies were stored for some weeks after death to protect them from the grave robbers who sold corpses to anatomy students for dissection.
From the Chapel of Our Lady of the Storms the North Sea may be viewed in all its moods, and within the sheltering walls of the kirkyard rest many who depended on these waters for their livelihood. Numerous headstones, some adorned with ships and anchors, stand in memory of seamen and fishermen. Many of these men lost their lives at sea. Close to the west gable of the chapel is a prominent memorial to the crew of the Stonehaven lifeboat, St George, who died on 27 February, 1874 whilst going to the rescue of the barque, Grace Darling. When distress signals were spotted, the crew launched the lifeboat in heavy seas and rowed frantically to help the barque which was being swept northwards. The lifeboat crew was unable to overtake the barque and had abandon the mission at Aberdeen, Tragically, the lifeboat capsized as it entered Aberdeen harbour with the loss of the coxswain and three crew members. Two of these courageous men are buried here at Cowie, one at Nigg and one at Belhelvie.
Scattered throughout Cowie kirkyard are headstones which display symbols of mortality, such as skulls, crossed bones, hourglasses and the sexton’s spades. The unusual symbol of a winged hourglass may be seen on a badly eroded 18th century stone within the ruined chapel. There are aalso excellent examples of trade symbols such as the crown and hammer of the blacksmith, the crown and last of the shoemaker, the tree-masted ship of the merchant seaman, the boat of the fisherman, and the ploughshare and coulter of the farmer. Close to the priest’s door is the headstone of a Stonehaven merchant which bears the traditional merchant’s symbol based on the figure 4. Nearby is a late 18th century stone memory of William Edward and his wife, engraved by their son with the Masonic symbols of sun, moon, star, set square and compasses, trowel, chisel on ashlar, level, plumb rule, mell, set square and gavel.
There are several curious inscriptions in Cowie kirkyard. One of these commemorates Raymond Stewart, who is described as a “a Black Man, a native of Granada who lived 30 years in the service of the late Mr Farquharsoon of Breda, in this country, and was much respected. “ He died at Elsick on 3rd January 1834 “leaving money which he had saved for charitable purposes”. Another intriguing epitaph is that of William Kilgour which describes him as “an original genius who exercised his craft of a weaver at Glithnow for the long period of 62 years”. It continues :
“here lyes the man, for aught we know,
That lived and died without a foe
Now mouldr’ing here beneath that clod
An honest man’s the noblest work of God.”
Not far from the seaward wall is a goup of tombstones commemorating ministers of the Episcopal Church. One of these stones marks the resting place of the Reverent John Troup of Muchalls, who died in 1776. Mr Troup, along with his fellow clergymen, Mr John Petrie of Drumlithie and Mr Alexander Greig of Stonehaven, defiantly contravened the Act which prohibited Episcopal minister from preaching to more than 4 persons at a time. Consequently, all three gentlemen were imprisoned in the Old Tolbooth at Stonehave for six months during the winter of 1748-49. It is said that Mr Troup made his personal protest by boldly piping the Jacobite air, “O’er the Water to Charlie”, as he was led to prison.
Regardless of their confinement, the three clergymen continued to minister to their faithful follower and regularly read matins and evenson to those who gathered below the window of their cell. Baptisms too were conducted, the infants being carried in creels through knee-deep water and over rocks to be held up to the bars of the shore side prison windows.
Kincardine and Deeside District Council -1995
Rev James Stewart's Headstone at Cowie Stonehaven
Pray for the soul of the Rev James Stewart who for eighteen years administered to the spiritual wants of the Catholics of Stonehaven and who departed this life on the 1st of June 1899. May he rest in peace.
Derived from information compiled by and/or copyright of RCAHMS (www.rcahms.gov.uk)
St Ciaran's Kirkyard Fetteresso Stonehaven
The surviving ruin is the 1720 rebuild of the earlier church (the medieval church was longer and had no north aisle). Internally, galleries were added at the east and west ends, and the pulpit was sited opposite the north aisle, where there was probably a vault and Laird's Loft. This created a T-shaped preaching kirk, with the focus changed from the east end (the altar) to the pulpit. the belfry is dated 1737. Re-used medieval stonework is still visible in the walls.
The recess on the inside of the south wall by the door is for a Stoup, a medieval holy water basin. On the outside of this door hung the Jougs, a metal collar used for punishment of moral offences between the 16th and 19th Centuries. Offenders were chained to the outside of the kirk for several services until brought in to sit on the Stool of Repentance and be denounced before the Congregation.
History
St Ciaran lived from 515-548 AD. He was an Irish monk, missionary to the Picts and the founding Abbot of Clonmacnois monastery. The church was dedicated in 1246 by Bishop David de Bernham. It was the 'mother church' of the chapels of Cowie and Dunnottar. It would have been thatched and had an earthen floor. It's location on a knoll above the Carron water, inconveniently sited at the extreme south of the parish suggests the re-use of an earlier sacred site. No symbol stones are known from here.
Stonehaven became the county town of Kincardineshire in 1600. Subsequent population growth meant that the kirk was "old, inconvenient, and unfit to contain the congregation, when fully assembled together" according to the Minister, John Hutcheon. The New Kirk on Bath Street was duly opened in 1813. St Ciaran's fell derelict, but was rescued by the Duffs of Fetteresso who used it as their burial ground. The General Assembly in 1581 forbade the practice of burials within a kirk, but burials could still however be carried out in vaults, which formed part of an aisle adjoining the kirk.
Some relics from the Old Kirk, a carved panel from the pulpit, a Font formerly built into the wall, rediscovered during restoration works in the 1980s, and a graveslab are in the New Kirk. Other relics are recorded as being taken to Fetteresso Castle in the in nineteenth century.
Kirkyard
There are over 200 burials in the kirkyard. Some eighteenth century stones were engraved by a Mr Cresswell, a farmer "who could not form a single letter with the pen". There are many fine examples of dedication poems to be found in St Ciaran's kirkyard.
The recess on the inside of the south wall by the door is for a Stoup, a medieval holy water basin. On the outside of this door hung the Jougs, a metal collar used for punishment of moral offences between the 16th and 19th Centuries. Offenders were chained to the outside of the kirk for several services until brought in to sit on the Stool of Repentance and be denounced before the Congregation.
History
St Ciaran lived from 515-548 AD. He was an Irish monk, missionary to the Picts and the founding Abbot of Clonmacnois monastery. The church was dedicated in 1246 by Bishop David de Bernham. It was the 'mother church' of the chapels of Cowie and Dunnottar. It would have been thatched and had an earthen floor. It's location on a knoll above the Carron water, inconveniently sited at the extreme south of the parish suggests the re-use of an earlier sacred site. No symbol stones are known from here.
Stonehaven became the county town of Kincardineshire in 1600. Subsequent population growth meant that the kirk was "old, inconvenient, and unfit to contain the congregation, when fully assembled together" according to the Minister, John Hutcheon. The New Kirk on Bath Street was duly opened in 1813. St Ciaran's fell derelict, but was rescued by the Duffs of Fetteresso who used it as their burial ground. The General Assembly in 1581 forbade the practice of burials within a kirk, but burials could still however be carried out in vaults, which formed part of an aisle adjoining the kirk.
Some relics from the Old Kirk, a carved panel from the pulpit, a Font formerly built into the wall, rediscovered during restoration works in the 1980s, and a graveslab are in the New Kirk. Other relics are recorded as being taken to Fetteresso Castle in the in nineteenth century.
Kirkyard
There are over 200 burials in the kirkyard. Some eighteenth century stones were engraved by a Mr Cresswell, a farmer "who could not form a single letter with the pen". There are many fine examples of dedication poems to be found in St Ciaran's kirkyard.
Derived from information compiled by and/or copyright of RCAHMS (www.rcahms.gov.uk)
Dunnottar Church and Kirkyard
See the history page for previous information on this church.
Tullich Kirkyard
Saint Nathalan lived from about 620 to 678. He was an early Christian Saint active on Deeside. The ruined church at Tullich dates from 1400. The religious significance of the site relating back to the early Celtic Church, when the original building was dedicated to St Nathalan, Bishop of Aberdeen, who lived in the 5th century. The Churchyard features Pictish symbol stone which probably dates from the 7th Centuary, depicting the “double disc and Z-shaped rod”, “the elephant “ and the ” mirror”.
The first church on this site was founded by St Nathalan, one of the great Scottish saints. St Nathalan cultivated the land surrounding his small church and distributed his harvest generously to the local people. One oft-told legend relates that during one very rainy summer he cursed the wet weather which hindered the gathering of his grain. To show his immediate repentance of this “great sin” he padlocked his right arm to his right leg, tossed the key into the River Dee and set off to walk to Rome to seek forgiveness. On reaching Rome, he sat down to supper and open the fish that laid before him to find within it the very key which he had thrown into the River Dee many months previously.
A pool in the river nearby is still known as the Key Pool. St Nathalan died in 678, and it is said that miracles were wrought by his relics, which were preserved here until the reformation in 1560. His feast day was celebrated locally on 8th January for many centuries.
The dance”the Reel of Tullich” is said to have originated in the Church, when on a very cold Sunday morning the congregation while waiting for the priest kept warm by dancing this reel.
When the minister came upon the scene of gay abandon in the kirkyard, he warned the participants that not one would survive the year. It is said his prophecy was fulfilled.
Headstone in Tullich graveyard.